• This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 6 months ago by .

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• Okay I’ve recently purchased Command & Colors Napoleonic and after a couple of test drives I believe its a game I’ll be getting a lot of use from. Hence I’ve been pondering making some hex terrain and using 6mm or 10mm minis instead of the blocks and board provided with the game. I also intend to plunge into the world of ancients using these rules. After some info, advice and viewing some inspiring photos from their blogs I’ve decided to take heed to Martin and Norm (thank you gentlemen) and taking the plunge and I’m going to order some Hexon Tiles.

  Norm also LINKed this brilliant thread here…

  …this was probably the final clincher in deciding to go this particular route. Now since the P&P is a large consideration (UK to Canada) I really don’t want to make the mistake of ordering too little an amount. I’d appreciate any recommendations from those who have gone down this path before. Martin has already mentioned that the playing board for C&C is 9×13=117 hexes… and a box of Hexon 105 hexes….

  13×9 hexes so one box of tiles will do, although a pack of single hexes is useful as the rows aren’t symmetrical. Plus a pack of hills and some extra single hex hills.

  Apart from these considerations, should I have anything else in mind? Road tiles or river tiles? I use a sand technique in creating roads and rivers in my larger games that I think might work (although I’m slightly concerned about the scale difference and what difference this would make to the layer of sand (I don’t want the river looking like a giant blue causeway through the countryside 🙂

  Edit: Also would appreciate any sources for buildings etc that could be used fro C&C in the micro scales…

  Anyway I’ll add these Links for anyone who might be considering something similiar

  Martin and Norm’s Sites

  Link to the Hexon Site:

  John

  • This topic was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by . Reason: Sources for Buildings in Micro Scales

  “The great Gaels of Ireland are the men that God made mad,
  For all their wars are merry, and all their songs are sad.”

  Panda,

  I’ve been looking at Command Colors Napoleonics for a long time, but I’m not sure and that’s quite a bit of money. I’d love to hear what you’re liking so much about it, and even what you’re not.

  As an aside, check out what this dude did 10mm Napoleonics for C&C:
  http://wargamehistory.blogspot.com/2014/07/more-mini-napoleonics-eckmuhl-in-10mm.html

  With you liking the game, and seeing what this guy did, I’m getting inappropriate ideas 😉

  V/R,
  Jack

  Thanks John, here are a few more of my pages that you may like and find helpful;

  My blog’s sister site, Hex terrain examples – LINK http://commanders.simdif.com/painting-table.html

  Replay of C&C Ligny – LINK http://battlefieldswarriors.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/commands-and-colors-ligny.html

  Suggestions on a starter set for Hexon for a small table LINK – http://battlefieldswarriors.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/pinboard-project-final-monthly-update.html

  I am mindful that from a postal point of view, you will be wanting to maximise your order versus costs, Kallistra are very helpful about postage overseas and it may be worth you dropping Sally a line re postal costs and weights of the things on your buying list,

  The way you orientate the tile to match a C&C boards means you need enough 6 cell boards to go three boards deep (gives 9 hexes) and 6 boards wide (gives 12 hexes) – so 18 boards PLUS you have to decide how to do that 13th row, so you can either buy a pack of single tiles to make that row up – they come in packs of 10, which will be enough OR buy three extra 6 cell boards, which will actually make your gaming area 14 hexes wide and for C&C you can then ignore the last row. In that orientation, each hex is 4″ so it may make a difference on your table whether you do 13 or 14 hexes anyway.

  The next decision is whether to buy pre-flocked or bare plastic boards and add your own flock. There are advantages to both. Their own flocked boards are densely flocked and robust and will match all their accessories that are also pre flocked. I like the green / earth brown mix, but think the two tone hills stand out better against that background. They use a sort of grass type flock and you can buy a bag of flock from them if you want your own home made accessories to blend in with their boards. Non-flocked is cheaper and allows you to choose your own flock colours and texture. I found when I used my own flocks, it covered OK, but when I used the Kallistra flock, I had to do it a second time because I could see shiney dried glue showing through – for me I like the pre-flocked because the results are more consistent than my own.

  Having bought the tiles, I think the immediate accessories to consider are;

  1) a length of brook to go across the entire width, to include a few sections with turns. Think about how you would like to model some bridges, remembering that Kallistra items are designed for their 12mm figures – have a look at the Baccus 6mm catalogue for some inspiration.

  2) some high ground, in the first instance I would get their pre-formed hills (they do individual slopes so that bespoke hill shapes can be built up, but really you need a bigger collection of base tiles to support the extra height etc) because that is what will best serve a C&C board. For my gaming, I find 3 and 4 hex hills useful, but to re-create a Commands and Colours scenario, singles and double hills will probably be the most flexible.

  3) buy a pack(s) of blank hex templates, these are wafer thin plastic hex tiles designed to sit on top of your boards that you can model on and paint and just drop over a flocked hex to give a terrain feature. I have some just painted grey, so I can cover the grass when building up a town area. These are handy for giving you one off features such as the sand pit or a pond

  4) for roads, I have kallistra roads, but I mostly use 1″ thin brown felt strips that have been coated with a syrupy mix of PVA glue, brown paint or ink and some bits of flock for texture. Allow to dry and then dry-brush in a lighter colour.

  5) for trees (thinking about 6mm), kallistra do 25mm and 38mm versions, but their prices do not include the bases, which I think you would want (they are supplied separately . If you have a local rail model shop, you may be better sourcing locally.

  6) consider a sheet of the Kallistra anti-slip matt (£3.50), it goes under you bases to stop them slipping down off slopes – not essential, just a thought

  7) Buildings – there are tons of 6mm out there, timecast do nice stuff, but for C&C all terrain needs to fit in the hex and also allow some troops in there as well, so think footprint!

  I’m sure other who have actually set out to do C&C boards can chip in here, but this is a start

  • This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by .

  Excellent advice from Norm. Sorry, I should have mentioned the boards come in six hex blocks.

  My basic set is one box of pre flocked boards, one 10 hex pack of pre flocked single hexes, the standard hill pack plus an extra pack of singles and the standard river pack plus a bunch of the plain hex overlays.

  Felt sticks really well to the flock so I use that for roads, extra rivers are done with felt, trees are 6mm railway ones and various buildings, trenches, bridges etc as appropriate.

  Cheers

  Martin

  'Mistakes in the initial deployment cannot be rectified' - Helmuth von Moltke

  One final thought, rather than going through the pain of clipping the boards together, I lay them out on a non slip mat. The sort of thing you get to go under rugs or in car boots/trunks.

  A rough blanket would work too.

  Cheers

  Martin

  'Mistakes in the initial deployment cannot be rectified' - Helmuth von Moltke

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